It probably depends on the carrier, but as far as I know Verizon does not charge for *online* ESN changes. Alltel would hopefully be similar, but yes you'd better call them to check. $35 is ludicrous - show me a web page or customer agreement saying that.
Also note that your equipment may not allow online ESN swaps under your current plan. With Verizon you can't usually ESN swap between phones that require different plans (like a PPC/Smartphone to a "regular" handset, or to a blackberry). But I've switched between my 6700 and my Q a few times this past weekend with no problems. I plan to use the Q day to day and the 6700 when I travel or when I'm away from the office for extended periods of time.
Finally, if the online ESN changer fails to work and you have to call in or go to a store to do it, as long as you explain that the online swap didn't work they will typically waive the fee. But make that the first thing you say so they understand clearly that you tried to do it online and it failed.
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