It took a while, but I eventually got activesync to work with gmail as well.
Two tricks that were poorly documented:
Exchange server: m.google.com
Username ends with @gmail.com
http://www.google.com/support/mobile...36&topic=14299
Sync only what folders gmail supports (inbox/contacts/calendar) not tasks.
Disable google captcha:
https://www.google.com/accounts/DisplayUnlockCaptcha
After that you have bi-directional syncing. Very nice and free.