TV-Out Blue Flicker and Cable Construction

[LoneSnark]

Everything shows as it should for TV-Out in every application except CorePlayer which has a full-frame blue flicker when using the QTV driver. It does not do it on the other drivers, but the other drivers have extremely poor frame rates.

Does anyone know a fix for this? Maybe another DivX playing program that does not suffer the same problem?

Thank you!

[blazin-asian]

just curious, but where did you get your TV out cables from? cheapest ive seen is about $25

[LoneSnark]

Built them myself.

[thacounty]

Originally Posted by LoneSnark

Built them myself.

Umm please share.

Edit: There are a lot of people around these forums trying to build these cables. I am really pumped to see that someone has this working. Can you post some instructions please?

[steb0ne]

Originally Posted by LoneSnark

Built them myself.

maybe that's the problem?

j/k

[leoiden]

Originally Posted by steb0ne

maybe that's the problem?

j/k

?Ha Ha Ha that was funny man joke without any effort good one bro !=D>

[tunerstk]

Hi did leave himself wide open for that.
But seriously a bad solder job or the wrong impeedence wire could change things when your dealing with a video signal.

Doubt it would be application specific.

[tantrum829]

Another divx playing program.

www.divx.com/mobile/requirements.php

[LoneSnark]

Well, if people are really interested, I did it thusly:

1. I found one of these cables lying around left over from a portable DVD player I don't use anymore

To verify that your cable matches mine, measure the length of the 1/8" 4pin jack against a regular 3-pin headphone's jack and make sure they are the same length. Next, check the electrical circuit with a meter. From the wire-side of the jack it goes Ground, White-tip, Red-tip, Yellow-tip. If your order is different that is fine, all that matters is that Ground is the first pin. If not, then your wiring will be different.

2. Plugged this 1/8" 4pin headphone/composite cable into the long audio adapter which came with my TP

3. I found this splitter/adapter which came with my Mogul and broke it open with a knife


Inside you will see the wires from the TP spreading out and soldered to a breadboard. Each wire/contact is numbered in white on the breadboard and by cutting three wires and re-soldering two, the signals are re-routed to where they need to be.

stock arrangement:
6: Mic, Video Out
7: AudioR
8: Video Sense
9: Headset Sense
10: AGround
11: AudioL

Where I need them:
6: -> 10: Mic, Video Out
7: -> 7: AudioR
8: -> 6: Video Sense
9: -> NC: Headset Sense
10: -> 6: AGround
11: -> 11: AudioL

The wire running to contact 6 needs to be cut and reattached to contact 10.
The wire running to contact 10 needs to be cut and reattached to contact 6.
The wire running to contact 9 needs to be cut and isolated (open circuit).
The wire running to contact 8 needs to run to any ground, so I cut it and reattached to contact 6.

Now I put it back in the plastic case I broke it out of, taped it tightly shut and plug it into the completed cable. The adapter from step 2 above plugs into the newly arranged headset jack and a power adapter can plug into the left alone side with the power jack.

It needs to be said that the order on the RCA end is incorrect. The Red jack is AudioR, the Yellow jack is AudioL, and the White jack is Video. By cutting and resoldering one extra wire this could have been fixed, but I did not bother.

It has been pointed out that contact 6 (ground) should also be connected to the shielding ground to eliminate an audible audio hum.

[Crossova]

Damn.. Radio Shack is closed right now... this will be my DIY project for the weekend until my cable comes in from expansys