I vote for Magicbutton. It's easy enough to shut off when it gets in the way.
Another program I like a lot is pwrstat. It's a inobtrusive battery and memory display (it takes up one row of pixels at the very top of the screen and is one of the few apps I've seen that works well in flip-mode).
I definately vote for all freeware. I was very annoyed by the payware crap that came on my phone.
EDIT: I vote for PHM Regedit as well. I assume this ROM is meant for people that know what they're doing (or at least can BS it well)
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